Monday, May 2, 2011

Weißer Spargel


Ok, in the last week or so, several people have asked me how to prepare White Asparagus since they've finally come into season and vendors are popping up at all the Farmers Markets with 'em. In case you've never heard of White Asparagus, here's some info for your noggin:

During the Spargelsaison, or season of white asparagus, Germans unite in their devotion to this delicate and delicious vegetable which makes its first appearance in mid-April and usually disappears around the end of June. Asparagus officinalis is a leafy plant whose young shoots are known to us as the vegetable asparagus. Cultivated by ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, asparagus has long been cherished for its subtle flavors and as one of the first vegetables of spring.

While green asparagus is more common in the United States, it is the arrival of the white asparagus that sends Europe into a feasting frenzy. White and green asparagus come from the same plant, but in Germany the earth is heaped into knee-high mounds around the asparagus plants to keep the shoots away from sunlight in order to prevent the development of the chlorophyll that would turn them green.


The farmers must keep a close watch on the white asparagus crop, which is typically harvested by hand at dawn. If a tip of a shoot grows beyond the mound and is exposed to the sun, it will turn a light purple color. When a crack appears on the surface of the dirt mound, the farmer takes great care to excavate and cut out the spear. All newly planted asparagus beds may take two to three years of cultivation before they produce a crop. Afterwards, the plants produce for another 20 or so years. In light of these factors, it is easy to see why this labor-intensive crop with a very limited production window can garner high prices on the market.

I remember my Grandma being able to get her paws on 'em once in a while back in California (I think she had the hook up at a local German deli), and she'd make it with Rinderrouladen, potatoes and sometimes she'd toss some red cabbage in the mix (I'm totally not a fan of red cabbage). The main thing I distinctly remember her telling me is that you HAVE to peel the asparagus or else you're going to have a very bitter / borderline bark-like tasting veggie. So, here's how you tackle some White Asparagus:

Preheat the oven to 400* and wash the veggies:


Chop about half an inch off of the bottom of the stalk:


You gotta peel the outer skin; I used my Serrated Peeler to do that:


Once you're all done peeling, poke holes in the stalks with a fork (don't over do it!!), and stick them in a baker. 


Add fresh ground pepper (however much you want to use), a seasoning of your choice (I used Tastefully Simples Wahoo Chili seasoning) and 1 container of chicken stock (I used the low sodium type). 


Pop it in the oven for 20-30 minutes (without the cover), depending on how soft you want your stalks.


If you happen to have Parmesan cheese, you can use that to sprinkle whatever stalks you put on your plate. There's a variety of different ways you can make these: steam, boil, bake, fry...they always turn out good because they have their own natural flavor which is a buttery taste. If you're able to actually experience it in Germany, by all means, do it. They normally serve it with an amazing Hollandaise sauce and potatoes:

Here's what to look for when buying fresh, white asparagus.

  • Look at the cut ends, are they dried out? Gently squeezing the ends should produce juice droplets. If you live in Germany, check with the seller before touching any produce yourself.

  • Are the asparagus spears straight and white? The straighter and whiter they are, the more you should expect to pay for them. Violet-colored or crooked asparagus tastes the same, but is harder to peel and not break plus the violet color is considered a flaw in Germany.

  • Is the asparagus thick and stocky? The thicker the asparagus spears, the bigger the yield after peeling, and the easier it is to peel.

Storing and handling asparagus

  • Do not keep asparagus more than a day or two after purchase. Keep it in a loosely-wrapped, damp kitchen towel in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.
  • Handle asparagus carefully to minimize breakage. White asparagus is less flexible than green and can snap off, especially right behind the head. While it still tastes good, it is usually reserved for stock and soup at that point.

0 comments: